Ensenada-Style Fish Tacos (Tacos de Pescado "Clasicos de Ensenada")

• 2 garlic cloves, peeled
• Salt
• 1/2 teaspoon Mexican oregano
• 1/2 teaspoon fresh black pepper
• 1 teaspoon yellow mustard (like French's)
• 1 teaspoon concentrated chicken base or chicken-flavor powdered bouillon
• 1 cup beer, sparkling water or water
• 1 cup all-purpose flour (or use cake flour for a slightly lighter crust)
• 1 teaspoon baking powder
• 1/3 cup mayonnaise
• 1/3 cup Mexican crema, crème fraiche or sour cream
• about 1/4 cup milk
• 1 cup (or more) thinly sliced cabbage (I like Napa cabbage best)
• About 1 cup salsa (Chopped Tomato-Green Chile Salsa, Toasted Arbol Chile Salsa, Roasted Green Chile Salsa, or even one of the Mexican hot sauces like Tamazula or Valentina)
• 2 or 3 limes, cut into wedges
• Vegetable oil to a depth of 1 1/2 inches for frying
• 1 pound boneless, skinless fish filets (practically anything will work, but I like larger-flake, lighter-flavor fish best for this preparation—think halibut, sea bass, grouper, cod and the like)
• 12 warm corn tortillas

Make the batter

1. 1

   Finely chop the garlic, sprinkle generously with salt, then mash back and forth with the side of your knife across your cutting board until crushed to a puree. Scrape into a medium bowl and add the oregano, black pepper, mustard, chicken base or bouillon, and ½ teaspoon salt. Whisk in the beer or water, then add the flour and baking powder and whisk just until combined.

Prepare the condiments

1. 2

   Mix together the mayonnaise, crema or sour cream and enough milk to give the mixture an easily spoonable consistency; scrape into a serving bowl. Set out with the cabbage, salsa and limes in serving bowls.

Fry the fish

1. 3

   Heat the oil in a deep heavy skillet to 375 degrees. While the oil is heating, cut the fish into pieces about 3 inches long by 1/2 inch square. Use a pair of tongs to pick up a piece of fish, dip it completely into the batter, and lay it into the oil, letting it dangle a few seconds before letting it go (this helps to keep them from sticking on the bottom). Continue with a few more pieces of fish, filling the hot oil with an uncrowded layer. Fry, turning the pieces regularly, until deep golden and crisp, about 4 minutes. Drain on paper towels and keep warm in a low oven on a wire rack set over a sheet pan while you fry the rest of the fish.

Serve

1. 4

   Transfer the crispy fish to a warm platter. Bring it to the table with the warm corn tortillas and all the condiments for everyone to make delicious tacos.